Perfect Zippered Pouch tutorial – make your own project bags!

This is a repost of a tutorial I wrote up a few years ago for zippered pouches on my previous blog. As written, this size is perfect for notions or other crafty bits and pieces, but alter the size to suit and you have a perfect project bag!

Enjoy making one of your own if you are keen on sewing, and if not – no worries because there are plenty of talented sewists out there who specialise in project bags – take a look on Etsy!


I’ve made many zippered pouches over the years, and especially lately! Once you’ve conquered a fear of zips, they seem pretty straight forward to make, right? Until the point you need to turn the whole thing inside out – only to find puckered ends, and a lining that doesn’t seem to fit inside nicely.

Here are some I’ve made recently, preparing for my Easter market.

Zippered Pouch Collection

I decided it was time to share a few extra hints and tips to give you a perfect zippered pouch – every time! No more holding your breath as you turn the pouch inside out :-)

If you’ve made one of these before, or you have a favourite tutorial you use and would just like to read my hints and tips – see below! If you’ve never made one, or would like to try again, just read on for my tutorial.

5 Tips for a Perfect Zippered Pouch

Tip 1: If you are using fusible interfacing (highly recommended!), apply to exterior fabrics only, and cut it to size minus the seam allowances. This will reduce bulk in your seams.

Tip 2: Sew zipper ‘tabs’ to your zipper. Notice the little pieces of fabric on either end of the zip? These are the tabs, and they help to create neat edges. It also means there’s zero chance of sewing over the metal ends of the zip.

Tip 3: When preparing to sew around the lining and the exterior, you’ll notice that the zip wants to ‘fold’. Make sure this ‘fold’ is sandwiched on the lining side of your pouch. Scroll down to Step 10 for a visual as it’s a bit hard to explain!

Tip 4: When sewing around the outside of the lining and exterior, increase your seam allowance slightly when sewing around the lining part. This will make your lining slightly smaller, and result in a neater fit when you place it inside the finished pouch.

Tip 5: Just as you trim corners to get a neat finish when turning something inside out, trim the seam allowance on each side of the zip before turning out. Scroll down to Step 12 for a visual.

And a bonus tip: Press, press, press! Pressing always results in a much neater finish, don’t skip these steps – even if you really hate ironing :-)

Now for the tutorial:

Perfect Zippered Pouch Tutorial with Boxed Corners

Perfect Zippered Pouch Tutorial Handmade and Home

As with most of my sewing tutorials, even though I’m from Australia, my measurements are in inches as I use a rotary cutter and board for cutting fabrics!

Finished size: Approx 8 x 5″

Supplies:

One 7″ zip

Two 9 x 7″ exterior pieces (you could also patchwork an exterior, or mix and match fabrics like my linen pouches, just trim to a finished size of 9 x 7″)

Two 2 x 1″ zipper tab pieces (in same fabric as exterior)

Two 9 x 7″ lining pieces

Two 8 x 6″ fusible interfacing

Step 1: Fuse interfacing to wrong side of exterior pieces, leaving a 1/2″ gap around the outside. This is to reduce bulk in your seams later on (TIP 1)

2. Zippered Pouch Tutorial Interfacing

Step 2: (TIP 2) Place one of the zipper tabs right side down on the zip as shown. Using a 1/4″ seam allowance, sew along the short edge. I like to sew this seam twice for extra strength.

Repeat on the other side, opening the zip first. Press both tabs away from the zipper ends

3. Zippered Pouch Tutorial Zipper Tab Collage

After pressing, trim the entire zip and tabs back to 9″

4. Zippered Pouch Tutorial Zipper

Step 3: Lay the exterior piece right side up. Unzip the zip halfway and then lay right side down on top of the exterior piece aligning the long edge of the zipper tape. Place a few pins along the length to secure

Lay the lining right side down on top of the piece you’ve just pinned, aligning all edges. Pin along length, and as you go remove the pins previously placed. Your zipper should be nicely sandwiched between the two layers of fabric

5. Zippered Pouch Tutorial Construction

Step 4: Using a zipper foot, sew along the length where you’ve pinned, as close to the zipper teeth as possible – approx. 1/8″. Don’t be scared – your zipper foot will stop you from sewing on the teeth!

6. Zippered Pouch Tutorial Construction Sewing Seam

When you approach the zipper pull (around halfway), stop with your needle down and lift your presser foot. Reach under the layers, and gently pull the zip closed. The zipper pull should now be out of the way and you can continue sewing. This keeps your stitching line nice and straight!

Step 5: Fold both the exterior and lining away from the zipper, bringing the wrong sides of the fabrics together. Press well

7. Zippered Pouch Tutorial Exterior 1

Step 6: Place the second exterior piece right side up. Place the piece you’ve just sewn right side down on top – aligning the edges as before. Your zipper pull should now be on the right hand side. Pin a few times along the edge to secure.

Lay the second lining piece right side down as before – aligning all edges. Pin along the edge, removing previous pins as you go.

8. Zippered Pouch Tutorial Construction Part 2

Step 7: Again, using an approx 1/8″ seam allowance, sew down the length of the layers. Stop just before the zipper pull at the end, and with your needle down, lift the presser foot and pull the zip open. Continue sewing until end.

Step 8: Fold the exterior and lining away from the zipper, as in Step 5. Press well.

9. Zippered Pouch Tutorial Exterior and Interior

Step 9: Top stitch both sides of the zip, as shown in the photo. This is to secure the lining, and stop it getting caught in the zipper teeth when opening and closing. And it looks great too!

10. Zippered Pouch Tutorial Top Stitching Zip

You may need to move the zipper pull again at certain points to keep a straight line.

Step 10: OPEN ZIP around 3/4 of the way (very important!). Open the fabric pieces and match the right sides of the linings and the exterior

Fold the tabs and zip, so that it’s sandwiched between the lining – see below. It may automatically fold this way (TIP 3)

12. Zippered Pouch Tutorial Zip and Lining

Pin well around the perimeter, leaving a 4″ gap in the bottom of the lining for turning out (gap is shown below between the pink ‘bow’ pins)

11. Zippered Pouch Tutorial Pinning Exterior Seam

Step 11: Using a 1/2″ seam allowance, sew around the outside, beginning at the bottom of the lining and continuing all the way around, leaving the gap open.

When sewing the lining section, increase your seam allowance a little. This will make the lining fit inside the pouch a little better (TIP 4)

Step 12: Trim seam allowances on both sides of the zipper as shown. This will reduce bulk when you turn your pouch out (Tip 5)

13. Zippered Pouch Tutorial Trimming seam allowance

Step 13: Now it’s time to box the corners. This will make the pouch stand up, and give it a professional looking finish!

Place your hand through the opening of the lining, and ‘squish’ the exterior fabrics together as shown. You can also peek into the opening to make sure the seams are aligned so that your ‘box’ will be square. Mark a line 1.5″ from the point and pin

14. Zippered Pouch Tutorial Box Corner Exterior

Repeat for other exterior corner – and also the two lining corners. For the lining corners, I like to open the seam as shown below, and mark the line a little more than 1.5″.

15. Zippered Pouch Tutorial Box Corner Interior

Step 14: Sew along the lines marked, and trim back the excess fabric to around 1/4″

16. Zippered Pouch Tutorial Box Corner trimmed

Step 15: Pull the pouch right side out, through the opening in the lining. This is why you need to have your zip open :-)

Using your finger, push out the tabs next to the zipper so they are nice and square. You may also need to use something blunt but pointy (knitting needles are perfect) to neaten

17. Zippered Pouch Tutorial Turning Out

Step 16: Before pushing the lining into the pouch, sew the hole closed using a very small seam allowance.

18. Zippered Pouch Tutorial Closing Hole

Of course, you could also hand sew it closed if you want an invisible finish!

19. Zippered Pouch Tutorial Finished

Press well and you’re done!

20. Zippered Pouch Tutorial Finished

Admire your pretty pouch! Now go and choose some more fabric for the next one, or four….


Podcast Episode 6 :: Summer WIPs

Back again for the first podcast of the new year! Sharing lots of WIPs and projects from the summer holidays


Works in Progress:

Moorland Blanket pattern by Attic24, using Stylecraft Special DK in the suggested colourways of the pattern and CAL

Find your Fade Shawl, pattern by Drea Renee Knits via Ravelry using 1 sock mini to begin of Hedgehog Fibres in ‘Teacup’, and tester yarns hand dyed by me

Tunisian Sunset‘ tunisian crochet blanket by Poppy & Bliss using ‘Palette‘ yarn by Knit Picks.

Morning Mist spring tee pattern by Annie Claire Designs via Ravely using Drops Cotton Merino purchased from Wool Warehouse

1 skein Crocheted Cowl ‘tester’, using a 6mm hook and hand dyed Worsted/10ply yarn

Knitting Needles mentioned: Knit Pro Fixed Circular ‘Zing’ also purchased from Wool Warehouse

Finished Objects:

Christmas Eve Cast On socks using hand dyed Stellina yarn and My Favourite Vanilla Socks pattern by The Unapologetic Knitter

Half Object! ‘Hermione’s Everyday Socks’ by Erica Lueder via Ravelry using a custom Dingo Dyeworks. Colourway dyed for Vanessa Kind and named ‘Christmas at My House’. Project bag also from Vanessa Kind.

Stash Enhancements:

Scheepjes Yarn Book-a-zine number 1 ‘Sea’

Cleckheaton Australian Superfine Merino in colourway #68 ‘Silver’, won via an Instagram competition

Shop Update:

New products can be found here

Thanks for watching, please subscribe if you enjoyed and I will see you again soon!

Comments, Questions and Suggestions are more than welcome! My You Tube channel can be found here

FO :: Spice of Life Blanket (s)!

spice-of-life-sublime-6Read more

A belated Happy New Year! I’m a little behind in the blogging department but I hope to start making that right!

Back in December I finished a blanket that had been languishing since the year before! I’m really not sure why I left it so long to finish, the pattern and the yarn were both a delight to work with, and I’m so pleased it is now finished. Introducing my ‘luxe’ version of the Spice of Life blanket by Sandra of Cherry Heart:

spice-of-life-sublime-3

I crocheted this with the very lovely ‘Baby Cashmere Merino Silk DK‘ yarn by Sublime. It was very much a splurge yarn, so I enjoyed every stitch as I don’t think I’ll be crocheting a blanket with it again for a while!

I used the following colours: 006, 048, 051, 124, 162, 276, 337, 344, 357, 359, 381, 456 & 527

spice-of-life-sublime-5 spice-of-life-sublime-6

This was the second Spice of Life blanket I’ve finished, the first I completed back in 2015 when the pattern was first released as a ‘crochet-a-long’. For that version, I used a similar colour palette but brighter:

spice-of-life-cascade-1

I used Cascade 220 Superwash in the following colours: Lemon 820, Coral 827, Lime Sherbet 850, Strawberry Cream 894, Ridge Rock 874, Dark Aqua 849, Spring Bud 1997, Pacific 1960, Cream 817, Seafoam Heather 1973, Wisteria 1967, Med Rose 839

spice-of-life-cascade-3I highly recommend this blanket pattern! It doesn’t require a whole lot of counting, and the sections are repeated so you don’t have to master too many stitches to complete the blanket. It’s a great way to try out some new patterns, and you can use almost any yarn you like. I think I will be making a third one day!

Podcast Episode 5 :: 4 sleeps until Christmas!

We’re fast approaching the end of the year, but join me for a quick podcast where I share what I’ve been working on – and what I hope to work on during the summer break!

Finished Objects:

‘Crochet Bauble Kit’ from Little Woollie Makes, individual pattern also available on Ravelry

Works in Progress:

Spice of Life‘ crochet blanket by Cherry Heart using Sublime ‘Baby Cashmerino Silk DK’

‘Hermione’s Everyday Socks’ by Erica Lueder via Ravelry using a custom Dingo Dyeworks. Colourway dyed for Vanessa Kind and named ‘Christmas at My House’. Project bag also from Vanessa Kind.

Future WIP:

Tunisian Sunset‘ tunisian crochet blanket by Poppy & Bliss using ‘Palette‘ yarn by Knit Picks.

Shop Update:

Hand dyed DK weight yarn available from my shop here

Thanks for watching, please subscribe, I will see you in the New Year!

Comments, Questions and Suggestions are more than welcome! My You Tube channel can be found here

 

 

 

FO :: Wisteria Crochet Blanket

wisteria-3Read more

wisteria-2

Blanket WIP number two that I’ve just finished was also another that I hadn’t worked on since April! I think that’s when the yarn dyeing bug bit me :-)

I had to make a few more squares, but then it was just a matter of joining it all up!

wisteria-3

Pattern: ‘Wisteria’ square from ‘200 Crochet Blocks‘ by Jan Eaton

Join & Border: I used a double-crochet join (UK) through the back loops only when holding the squares wrong sides together. The border is number 28 from the book ‘Around the Corner Crochet Borders‘ by Edie Eckman. For the first base round of dc’s, I crocheted into the back loops only.

Yarn: Bendigo Woollen Mills Luxury 8ply in Baby Mint, Lotus and Ghost

Size: 1.4m x 1m

Weight: Approx. 1.1kg

wisteria-1

I have another WIP in my sights now! That means I can start three new crochet blankets, right?!

Bec

 

Podcast Episode 4 :: all about the blankets!

Back again for Episode 4, and unintentially there was a bit of a blanket theme! Lots to share, the episode is up now:

Show Notes:

Finished Objects:

Wisteria Blanket, crochet square pattern from ‘200 Crochet Blocks‘ by Jan Eaton using Bendigo Woollen Mills Luxury 8ply in Lotus, Baby Mint & Ghost. Border is number 38 from ‘Around the Corner – Crochet Borders‘ by Edie Eckman

Slippers knit using hand dyed 8ply (DK) yarn in 100% Merino and the ‘Simple House Slippers‘ pattern by Temple of Knit

‘Destiny’ crocheted amigurumi character, pattern is on my blog here

Works in Progress:

‘Therapy’ Shawl by Laura Aylor, via Ravelry. Dingo Dyeworks yarn in ‘Ningaloo’ colourway, along with a hand dyed skein of Navy

Vanilla Socks using ‘My Favourite Vanilla Socks’ pattern by The Unapologetic Knitter and Opal brand sock yarn

Spice of Life‘ crochet blanket by Cherry Heart using Sublime ‘Baby Cashmerino Silk DK’

Stash Enhancements:

‘Christmas at my House’ project bag and yarn kit by Vanessa Kind from ‘My Creative Garage

‘Crochet Bauble Kit’ from Little Woollie Makes, individual pattern also available on Ravelry

My Favourite Things & From the Archives :: Blankets!

Ombre Chevron Knitted Blanket using the Baby Chevron Blanket pattern from the Purl Bee (extra cast one stitches to create an adult size blanket) and Cascase 220 Superwash

‘Europe Blanket’ crocheted using squares from 200 Crochet Blocks (linked under FO’s), and assorted 8ply/DK machine washable wool

Thanks for watching, please subscribe, I’m hoping to squeeze one more in before Christmas!

Comments, Questions and Suggestions are more than welcome! My You Tube channel can be found here

FO :: Cosy Stripe Crochet Blanket

cosy-stripe-3Read more

cosy-stripe-4

I’ve been busy finishing off some long-lost crochet blanket WIP’s lately – and this one was first! I only had around 10 colour changes to go on this blanket which I hadn’t picked up since April. I love how it turned out, and it reminded me how much I love to crochet stripes. So relaxing!

cosy-stripe-3

Pattern: Cosy Stripe by Attic 24

Border: Rows of trebles and finished off with a scallop (5tr in one stitch, skip 2, dc in next, skip 2) repeat. 7tr in corner spaces

Yarn: Bendigo Woollen Mills Luxury in the following colours: Ghost, Cream, Baby Pink, Baby Blue, Delphinium, Cerise, Sorbet, Lavender, Leaf, Aquarium, Citrus & Sunflower

Size: Approx. 1m x 1m

Weight: 800g

cosy-stripe-1

There’s another blanket to share very soon!

Bec

Finding Dory :: Destiny Amigurumi Crochet Free Pattern

destiny-crochet-pattern-title-imageRead more

destiny-crochet-pattern-title-image

Suitable for confident beginner. Finished size measures 19cm long x 7cm high approx.

You will need:

  • Assorted 8ply/DK cotton yarn in ‘Destiny’ colours for a total of around 40g: Teal blue and white. Acrylic also makes a good substitute. Gauge is not critical so any weight yarn can be used, keeping in mind the finished size will differ
  • 3 – 3.5mm crochet hook, or whatever hook size gives you a nice tight gauge that does not allow stuffing to escape. You will need to use one or two sizes smaller than your yarn ball band recommends
  • Small amount of toy stuffing, darning needle and scissors
  • Small safety/toy eyes

Abbreviations (UK TERMS):

ch = chain            sl st = slip stitch                 dc = double crochet (US Equivalent single crochet/sc)

dc2tog = double crochet two together (decrease)            T = Teal Blue  W = White

IMPORTANT NOTES:

The body and fins all begin with a magic ring which is essential for amigurumi patterns as it creates a nice tight centre. There are plenty of tutorials on YouTube if you’ve haven’t used one before.

Each round starts with a Ch1 – this does not count as one stitch but rather helps to create a neat and easy join. When you finish the round, slip stitch into the first dc, ignoring the Ch1

BODY:

EXTRA NOTES

Spots on Destiny’s back: To simplify the pattern I have not written in the exact location of the white spots. They are single double-crochet stitches between the teal which I randomly added as I went. They are easy to include as you will be carrying the white yarn around.

I added the spots every second round beginning at round 9, and finishing at round 35 before the final decreases. These rounds will begin with DOTS in the pattern. I started with 2 spots, around halfway added 4 spots, and then towards the end made a spot every 3rd stitch.

Carrying yarn: For the body, you will be alternating between two colours while carrying the unused colour at the back of your work and crocheting over it. To change colours, use your new colour on the last yarn over of the stitch before the colour change. Your new colour will then be in the correct position

Magic Ring to start, using T

1: Ch1, 6dc into magic ring (6)

2: Ch1, With W: 2dc in each stitch 2 times, with T:  2dc in each stitch 4 times (12)

3: Ch1, 1 dc in each – with W: 4, T: 8 (12)

4: Ch1, 1 dc in each – with W: 4, T: 8 (12)

5: Ch1, 1 dc in each – with W: 4, T: 8 (12)

6: Ch1, 1 dc in each – with W: 5, T: 7 (12)

7: Ch1, 1 dc in each – with W: 5, T: 7 (12)

8: INCREASE ROUND Ch 1, (1 dc, 2dc in next) Repeat around – with W: 8, T: 10 (18)

9: DOTS Ch1, 1dc in each – with W: 8, T: 10 (18)

10: Ch1, 1 dc in each – with W: 8, T: 10 (18)

11: DOTS Ch1, 1 dc in each – with W: 8, T: 10 (18)

12: Ch1, 1 dc in each – with W: 8, T: 10 (18)

13: DOTS INC Ch1, (2 dc, 2dc in next) Repeat around – with W: 11, T: 13 (24)

14: Ch1, 1 dc in each – with W: 11, T: 14 (24)

15: DOTS Ch1, 1dc in each – with W: 11, T: 13 (24)

16: INC. Ch1, (3 dc, 2dc in next) Repeat around – with W: 14, T: 16 (30)

17: DOTS Ch1, 1dc in each – with W: 14, T: 16 (30)

18: Ch1, 1dc in each – with W: 14, T: 16 (30)

19 – 27: Repeat Rounds 17 & 18

28: INC. ON SIDES Ch1, with W: 2dc in first, 12 dc, 2dc in last white stitch, with T: 2dc in first, 14 dc, 2dc in last stitch (34)

29: DOTS Ch1, 1 dc in each – with W: 16, T: 18 (34)

30: Ch1, 1 dc in each – with W: 16, T: 18 (34)

31: DOTS Ch1, 1 dc in each – with W: 16, T: 18 (34)

32: Ch1, 1 dc in each – with W: 16, T: 18 (34)

33: DOTS DECREASE Ch1, with W: dc2tog, 12 dc, dc2tog, with T: dc2tog, 14 dc, dc2tog (30)

34: Ch1, 1 dc in each – with W: 14, T: 16 (30)

35: DOTS DEC Ch1, with W: dc2tog, 10 dc, dc2tog, with T: dc2tog, 12 dc, dc2tog (26)

36: DEC Ch1, with W: dc2tog, 8 dc, dc2tog, with T: dc2tog, 10 dc, dc2tog (22)

37: DEC Ch1, with W: dc2tog, 6 dc, dc2tog, with T: dc2tog, 8 dc, dc2tog (18)

Cut yarns and tuck white end inside body. Attach small safety/toy eyes in position using photo as a guide. Using small amounts at a time, poke stuffing in through mouth opening using a knitting needle or a similar pointy but blunt object. Do not overfill, you’ll want a flattened whale shark shape like Destiny!

Using your teal yarn end and a darning needle, sew mouth opening closed

destiny-top-2

TAIL (make 2):

Magic Ring to start, using T

1: Ch1, 6dc into magic ring (6) Tighten magic loop at this point and fasten off yarn end

2: INCREASE ROUND Ch1, (2dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 2) Repeat once more (8)

3: Ch1, 2dc in each (8)

4: Ch1, 1 dc in each (8)

5: INC. Ch1, (2dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 3) Repeat once more (10)

6: Ch1, 1 dc in each (10)

7: Ch1, 1 dc in each (10)

8: DECREASE Ch1, (dc2tog, 3 dc in next 3 st) Repeat once more (8)

9: DECREASE Ch1, (dc2tog, 3 dc in next 3 st) Repeat once more (6)

Fasten off yarn, leaving a 10cm (6″) end and using a darning needle, close the opening by squeezing the sides together.  Sew both of the fins to the first round of the body, one pointing up, and the other down

destiny-tail-2

DORSAL FIN (make 1):

Magic Ring to start, using T

1: Ch1, 6dc into magic ring (6) Tighten magic loop at this point and fasten off yarn end

2: Ch1, 1 dc in each (6)

3: INCREASE ROUND Ch1, 2dc in each (12)

4: Ch1, 1 dc in each (12)

5: Ch1, 1 dc in each (12)

6: Ch1, 1 dc in each (12)

 Fasten off yarn, leaving a 10cm (6″) end and using a darning needle, close the opening by squeezing the sides together.  Sew the fin to the top centre of the body, lining up with approx. rounds 15-20

FRONT SIDE FINS (make 2):

 Magic Ring to start, using T

1: Ch1, 6dc into magic ring (6) Tighten magic loop at this point and fasten off yarn end

2: INCREASE ROUND Ch1, (2dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 2) Repeat once more (8)

3: Ch1, 2dc in each (8)

4: Ch1, 1 dc in each (8)

5: INC. Ch1, (2dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 3) Repeat once more (10)

6: Ch1, 1 dc in each (10)

7: Ch1, 1 dc in each (10)

8: Ch1, 1 dc in each (10)

9: Ch1, 1 dc in each (10)

Fasten off yarn, leaving a 10cm (6″) end and using a darning needle, close the opening by squeezing the sides together.  Sew one fin on each side of the body, lining up with approx. rounds 22-26

REAR FINS – TOP AND BOTTOM (make 2: one white, one teal):

 Magic Ring to start

1: Ch1, 6dc into magic ring (6) Tighten magic loop at this point and fasten off yarn end

2: INCREASE ROUND Ch1, (2dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 2) Repeat once more (8)

3: Ch1, 1 dc in each (8)

 Fasten off yarn, leaving a 10cm (6″) end and using a darning needle, close the opening by squeezing the sides together.  Sew teal fin on top side of the body, centered and lining up with approx. rounds 5-8. Repeat for white fin, sewing onto bottom

MOUTH:

Using black yarn, or embroidery floss doubled, embroider a mouth using ‘back stitch’ and the finished photo as a guide for placement

destiny-mouth-2

Enjoy your super cute Destiny, a little friend for Dory!

Printer friendly PDF version of the pattern can be downloaded here

Podcast Episode 3 :: summer is coming!

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We’ve had a little taste of summer here this past week, and there’s been lots to share so take a peek at Episode 3!

Show Notes:

Finished Objects:

Striped Socks using Smooth Operator Socks pattern by Susan B Anderson, self striping yarn was hand dyed by me as an experiment!

‘Dory’ crocheted amigurumi character, pattern is on my blog here

Cosy Stripe crochet blanket, pattern by Attic24 from here and 100% wool Luxury 8ply yarn from Bendigo Woollen Mills in the colours: Ghost, Cream, Citrus, Sunflower, Baby Blue, Baby Pink, Cerise, Aquarium, Delphinium, Lavender, Sorbet & Leaf

Next WIP shown: ‘Wisteria’ Square from 200 Crochet Blocks by Jan Eaton

Works in Progress:

‘Therapy’ Shawl by Laura Aylor, via Ravelry. Dingo Dyeworks yarn in ‘Ningaloo’ colourway, along with a hand dyed skein of Navy

Vanilla Socks using ‘My Favourite Vanilla Socks’ pattern by The Unapologetic Knitter and Opal brand sock yarn

Stash Enhancements:

Sock Minis by Hedgehog Fibres in Tea Cup, Boombox and Oracle. Purchased from Yarn Glorious Yarn

My Favourite Things :: Acrylic Yarn

Stylecraft ‘Special DK’, available in Australia from Deramores & Wool Warehouse

Thanks for watching, hit subscribe if you don’t want to miss Episode 4!

Comments, Questions and Suggestions are more than welcome! My You Tube channel can be found here

Bec xx

Finding Dory :: Dory Crochet Amigurumi Free Pattern

dory-title-image-6Read more

Finding Dory

Following the massive success of Disney-Pixar’s Finding Dory at the box office, we’d like to celebrate the home-release of the movie this November 16th, by sharing a crochet pattern for you to create your very own Dory! Settle in for a ‘crafternoon’, and you’ll have a cute little Dory toy that the kids will just love.

dory-crochet-pattern-title-image

Suitable for confident beginner. Finished size measures 10cm long x 5cm high approx.

You will need:

1-supplies

Assorted 8ply/DK cotton yarn in ‘Dory’ colours for a total of around 20g: Blue, Navy, Yellow, White and Black. Acrylic also makes a good substitute. Gauge is not critical so any weight yarn can be used, keeping in mind the finished size will differ

3 – 3.5mm crochet hook, or whatever hook size gives you a nice tight gauge that does not allow stuffing to escape. You will need to use one or two sizes smaller than your yarn ball band recommends

Small amount of toy stuffing, darning needle and scissors

Abbreviations (UK TERMS):

ch = chain            sl st = slip stitch                 dc = double crochet (US Equivalent single crochet/sc)

dc2tog = double crochet two together (decrease)            B = Blue  N = Navy  Y = Yellow

IMPORTANT NOTES:

The body, side fins and eyes all begin with a magic ring which is essential for amigurumi patterns as it creates a nice tight centre. There are plenty of tutorials on YouTube if you’ve haven’t used one before.

Each round starts with a Ch1 – this does not count as one stitch but rather helps to create a neat and easy join. When you finish the round, slip stitch into the first dc, ignoring the Ch1

BODY:

Magic Ring to start, using B

Round 1: Ch1, 6dc into magic ring (6)

2: Ch1, 2dc in each stitch around (12)

3: Ch1, (2dc in each of next 2 stitches, 1dc in each of next 2 st) repeat 2 more times (18) (pull magic loop tight at this stage and darn end)

2-body-start4: Ch1, (1dc, 2dc in next stitch) repeat 8 more times (27)

5: Ch1, 1dc in each (27)

3-body-start

6: Ch1, 1dc in each (you will start forming a bowl shape)

Next round you will be adding Navy, and alternating between the two colours while carrying the unused colour at the back of your work and crocheting over it. To change colours, use your new colour on the last yarn over of the stitch before the colour change. Your new colour will then be in the correct position to continue working

colour-changes-collage

7: With B: Ch1, 11 dc, with N: 5 dc, with B: 11 dc (27)

8: With B: Ch1, 10 dc, N: 7 dc, B: 10 dc (27)

9: Repeat Row 8

10: Repeat Row 8

11: With B: Ch1, 9 dc, N: 9 dc, B: 9 dc (27)

6-body-progress-a

12: Start Decreases With B: Ch1, dc2tog, 4 dc, N: 2 dc, B: 2 dc, N: 3 dc, dc2tog, 3 dc, B: 2 dc, N: 2dc, B: 3 dc, dc2tog (24)

13: With B: Ch1, dc2tog, 3 dc, N: 3 dc, B: 1 dc, N: 2 dc, dc2tog, 3 dc, B: 1 dc, N: 3 dc, B: 2 dc, dc2tog (21)

14: With B: Ch1, dc2tog, 2 dc, N: 6 dc, dc2tog, 6 dc, B: 1 dc, dc2tog (18)

15: With B: Ch1, dc2tog, 1 dc, N: 5 dc, dc2tog, 6 dc, B: dc2tog (15)

Cut Blue, fasten off and tuck end into body.

16: Using Navy Only Ch1, dc2tog, 4 dc, dc2tog twice, 3 dc, dc2tog (11)

17: Ch1, dc2tog, 4 dc, dc2tog, 3 dc (9)

18: Ch 1, dc in each (9)

7-body-progress

19: Start tail Ch1, 1 dc, JOIN YELLOW 2 dc, with N: 3 dc, Y: 2 dc, N: 1 dc (9)

20: With Y: Ch1, 3 dc, N: 3 dc, Y: 3 dc (9) There is no need to carry the navy behind your work from here onwards, as the navy stitches will be now be worked in a column of colour

21: With Y: Ch1, 4 dc, N: 1 dc, Y: 4 dc (9)

8-tail

22: Repeat 21

23: Repeat 21

24: Repeat 21

25: With Y: Ch1, 4 dc, N: 2dc into next, Y: 4 dc (10)

26: With Y: Ch1, 4 dc, N: 1 dc, 2dc into next, in Y: 4 dc (11)

Fasten off both Yellow and Navy, leaving a 10cm (6″) tail on both approx.

9-body-complete

Using small amounts at a time, poke stuffing in through tail opening using a knitting needle or a similar pointed but blunt object. Do not overfill, you’ll want a flattened fish shape like Dory! Push navy yarn end down inside body to hide

dory-body

Using the yellow yarn end and a darning needle, close the tail opening by squeezing it in half and sewing through the yellow stitches, refer to photo below:

11-closing-tail-opening

 

SIDE FINS (make 2):

Magic Ring to start with B leaving a long tail

Round 1: Ch1, 6dc into magic ring (6)

2: Ch1, (2dc in st, 1 dc in next 2 st) Repeat once more (8) Pull Magic ring tight and thread tail through centre to right side to be used for attaching fin later

3: Ch1, (2dc in st, 1 dc in each of next 3 st) Repeat once more (10)

4: In N (fasten off B): 1 dc in each around (10)

5: In Y (fasten off N): 1 dc in each (10)

6: Repeat round 5

Tie yarn ends from colour changes together tightly, trim and tuck inside fin. Fasten off yellow, leaving a 10cm (6″) end and using a darning needle and the same technique from the tail of the body, close the opening by squeezing the sides together.

side-fins

DORSAL FIN (make 1):

Using B: Ch 15

Row 1: In 2nd loop from hook, work a dc, and then a dc in each chain to end (14)

2: Ch1, turn, 2dc in first st, 11 dc, sl st into next 2 stitches

Fasten off, leaving a long end for attachment to the body

14-dorsal-fin

EYES (make 2):

Magic Ring to start using Black

Round 1: Ch1, 6dc into magic ring (6)

2: Using White: Ch1, sl st into next 2 st, (2dc in st, 1 dc in next st) Repeat once more. Work 2 more dc into the right hand side of the initial ch1. Slip stitch to first sl st (9)

The eye will be a slight ‘bowl’ shape. Darn ends, except for the final white end which will be used for attaching to body

15-eye-2

ASSEMBLY:

 Using photos as a guide, and a darning needle, attach fins and eyes to the body.

The eyes are to be attached with the slip stitch/flat edge facing towards the centre, at approx. round 4:attaching-eye

The side fins are to be attached at approx. round 11 and about 4-5 stitches up from the centre:17-attaching-pectoral-fins

The dorsal fin is to be sewn with the foundation row on the bottom side, and the slip stitch end on the tail. Begin attaching from the start of the navy rounds on the head end and work down towards the tail:

18-attaching-dorsal-fin

MOUTH:

 Using black yarn, or embroidery floss doubled, embroider a mouth using ‘back stitch’ and the finished photo as a guide for placement

19-embroidering-mouth

FINISH:

 Weave in any loose ends, and admire your cute little Dory!

For a printer friendly PDF version please click here

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